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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

I thought I was done with flat trusses but it was pointed out to me that I also need to consider top chord bearing configurations for this truss type.

I've created a simple matrix below with top and bottom chord bearing flat trusses. I'm not sure if these make sense, please review and feel free to comment.

The model can be downloaded here:

Top chord bearing usually involves the following steps:

1.) Trimming the heel web up a specific vertical amount (vertical offset).
2.) Insertion of a secondary heel web next to the trimmed (bearing) heel web.
3.) Trimming the bottom chord back to the secondary heel web.
4.) The diagonal web next to the heel is slightly altered by the addition of a secondary heel web.
5.) Certain configs require an additional heel web on the outside of the trimmed heel web: Mansard, Cantilever, Mansard w/ Parapet.

I can easily make this all happen and open up the option for top chord bearing flat roof trusses however I want to make sure it is right first.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

The top chord bearing option is almost complete for the flat trusses. Here is a preview with a Mansard /w Parapet on the left side and a cantilever on the right side. The bearing widths can be set independently as can the parapets heights now.

I'm not entirely satisfied with the UI for this truss type, a proper html UI would be much more intuitive but time consuming to create. Yet another important item on the todo list.

The plugin is starting to stray into some fairly exotic truss territory.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

Wood Gusset plates are on my mind this morning (for those of us crazy enough to build or own trusses):

Of course this option would be pretty much useless without the engineering to size the plates and check the fasteners. I will be giving this some more thought in the near future.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@gkernan wrote:

I've actually done this. I had a carport that I wanted to turn into a a garage. I needed to make it larger. When I took down the carport I had one of the original trusses.

What I did is used that truss as a template for a bob tail truss.

So I built a long wall first - laid it down and created a truss jig on the plywood. And yes - I use plywood for the gusset plates.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

I think a lot more people fab their own trusses than we realize. I don't disapprove but I do think that quality control is imperative. One bad joint in a truss can cause the entire truss to fail which in turn may cause a catastrophic failure of the roof system.

Some jurisdiction will require an engineer's stamp on any site built trusses, as they should, but there are many situations (ie. agri structures, small buildings) where there is no oversite by a building official or engineer. For those situations it would be useful to have an easy to use truss calculator that even the lay person could utilize and understand.

From my side there is some risk and liability associated with this, especially since I have no way to confirm the workmanship of the construction. If someone were to utilize my calculator and design a truss with plywood gussets, and assuming that they built it per the calculations and input the correct snow loads etc... but the construction was shoddy and it failed would I still be liable? Probably so. That is why I have hesitated on releasing the wood gusset portion of my Truss Designer (web based).

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@gkernan wrote:

I hear you. However I am a cabinet maker and a curved stair case maker.

I purchased quality materials with better grading than what was required. I used exterior grade plywood for the gussets and used properly sized pilot holes and screwed the gussets on with rust proof screws. I also used exterior grade glue on the gussets.

Of course you need to adhere to the nailing patterns.

Regardless - this garage is still standing 40 years later - and still looks great.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

I've seen a lot of great site built trusses.

I actually think a well constructed plywood gusset plated truss with glue and nails will out perform a metal plated truss. It's not the craftsmen that worry me its the DIYer who has limited experience building things and does not take the time and effort to do a quality job.

Trusses are unique structural elements that require special attention to the connection between members (joints).

One method to address the lack of quality control is to overbuild the truss slightly. This method is actually used to some degree in the manufacturer of MPC wood trusses.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

I think I've beaten the flat truss to death but I noticed after perusing through a number of flat truss shop drawings that the modified warren is also a popular web configuration. Its not too big of a deal to enable this configuration. The flat truss will then have the option between a pratt or mod warren web configuration.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

Enabled mod warren webs for the double pitched flat truss configuration:

The truss shown above is an asymmetric double pitched top chord bearing flat truss with a mod warren web configuration and cantilever ends. That is quite a mouthful.

I have not added the top chord bearing option and the mod warren webs to the other flat truss configurations yet (flat, monopitch, pitched), however I will if specifically requested. There a much hotter items on the plate.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

In the global settings I've added a setting to switch between metal and wood connector plates. Initially I will only enable wood plates for some of the more typical common trusses (ie. fink, howe, queen and king), if this feature proves to be popular I may enable it for more truss types.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

Version 1.9.1 - 06.09.2017
- Added plywood gusset plates for common fink trusses.
- Enabled a "WOOD" plate type option in the global settings.

*Note that the wood gussets are currently only available for the Fink truss, if anyone needs them enabled for a different truss please let me know.

View model here:

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

Added plywood gusset plates for raised heel common fink trusses.

View model here:

Note that there are currently no calcs associated with these WGC trusses. If you are going to build your own trusses I would strongly suggest you find a local structural engineer to assist in specifying the plates sizes and fasteners, especially if the truss span is greater than 16 feet and your snow loads are greater than 25 psf in your region.

When I engineer WGC trusses I will also call out a waterproof glue as well however I don't take the glue's strength into the calculations. This provides another margin of safety and also the rigidity of a glued and nailed gusset plated truss is superior in my opinion to your typical MPC truss.

Every member is critical in a truss, however some are more stressed than others. Your top and bottom chords should never be anything less than a No. 2 DF. I would suggest No. 1, No. 1 & Btr. or Select Structural. The webs of a typical truss are usually stressed quite a bit less than the chords and sometimes you can get away with stud grade lumber but I would suggest DF No. 2 on all webs as well. A strategically placed knot can easily ruin an entire truss.

Just as important as the materials is the level of care taken in cutting the members and assembling the truss. All joints should fit tightly together so that members in compression can bear directly on their adjacent members. Also realize that tension members may experience load reversals in high wind or seismic events so even tension members are no exception to the rule.

The correct fasteners and fastener size is critical. The nails will be in single or double shear and the joint connection is relying entirely on this shear strength of the fasteners to hold together. Fasteners too close to the edge or ends of a member are not as effective, so fastener placement is also critical.

I am curious how the two truss types would compare in a burn test, which one would stay intact longer. My suspicion is that the plywood gussets would char and slowly burn however the metal plates would heat up and loose their strength quickly and fail.

I know most people don't do this but I would personally stress test each truss before installing it on the intended structure. Mostly what you are looking for is a uniform deflection across all the trusses so that they can load balance properly. If a truss is defective this test should help ferret out this data even though visually the truss may look acceptable.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

Just for the record the algorithm to size and position the mid top chord to web plate (Plate 2) is a real piece of work:

gamma2 = 3.14159265358979 * 0.5 - @Phi
length2 = @Pldim2 * 0.5 -1
p3x = @Swx4 + length2 * (cos(@Theta2) / cos(gamma2 - @Theta2))
p3y = @Swy4 - length2 * (sin(@Theta2) / cos(gamma2 - @Theta2))
p2x = p3x - (@Tcd + length2) * cos(gamma2)
p2y = p3y + (@Tcd + length2) * sin(gamma2)
p1x = p2x - @Pldim2 * cos(@Phi)
p1y = p2y - @Pldim2 * sin(@Phi)
length4 = sqrt((@Strx4 - p1x)*(@Strx4 - p1x) + (@Stry4 - p1y)*(@Stry4 - p1y))
zeta2 = atan((p1y - @Stry4)/(@Strx4 - p1x))
length3 = length4 * sin(zeta2 + @Theta3) / sin(3.14159265358979 * 0.5 + @Phi - @Theta3)
p4x = p1x + length3 * cos(gamma2)
p4y = p1y - length3 * sin(gamma2)
if @Theta2 > gamma2
  p2x = p3x - ((@Tcd + length2) / (cos(@Theta2 - gamma2))) * cos(@Theta2)
  p2y = p3y + ((@Tcd + length2) / (cos(@Theta2 - gamma2))) * sin(@Theta2)
end

Actually had to use the Sine Law: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law_of_sines

Its funny because my 15 year old daughter just covered trigonometry in her math class and she told me she would never use this stuff so why learn it.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

I may have opened Pandora's box with the addition of the WGC fink trusses. I've now had a couple of requests for cut list associated with these trusses. I don't think it would be that hard to generate an html output using SVG showing the various members and their dimensions. This can then be printed to a PDF document by the user.

Any thoughts on creating construction drawings this way. I am essentially bypassing SketchUp's Layout with an Html/SVG solution but perhaps there is a better way.

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

I've been thinking about site built trusses some more and trying to apply some rational thought to how best to nail together a WGC truss. If you consider nails in single shear, 8d nails spaced at 4" between fasteners with a row spacing of 1" and and end spacing of 1.5" you end up with something like this.

Those are 8d common nails so they aren't very big but spaced at 2" between nails in a row I would be afraid of splitting that bottom chord.

Looking at this I'm fairly convinced that going with longer nails that are in double shear and clinched give more bang for the buck, allow less nails and thereby less chance of splitting the truss members. Thoughts?

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Truss Plugin/Extension

Truss Plugin/Extension

Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

Nailing from both sides is not reasonable in my opinion, there is no way to line up the nails easily from one side to the other, better to just nail from one side which bring me back to nails in double shear.

Using a 10d common nail (.148 x 3) and with 1/2" of protruding nail to clinch I get this layout:

with the backside looking something like this:

I probably don't need a 2.25" end distance (15D) on the plate edge toward the inside of the truss but I am using Table C11.1.6.6 from the NDS Commentary (NDS 2012).

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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@medeek wrote:

If you compare the capacity of a single shear and double shear connection in most cases you get double the capacity, see results for a 10D nail into DF and Structural 1 Plywood below:

So returning to our previous example we now have 2180.9lbs/176.3lbs = 12.4 => 13 fasteners in double shear, rather than 25 fasteners in single shear, a much more reasonable number of fasteners

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Truss Plugin/Extension

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